Friday, August 12, 2011

Friday, August 12 -- Sacre Coeur and Monmartre

BRUCE:  Today was another day of new adventures.  We took the metro, the underground rail system,which is used throughout Paris.  With help from a local woman, and the ticket agents we were able to figure out our transportation for the whole day.  Our destination Sacre Coeur, the highest point in Paris upon which sits the famous basilica, Sacre Coeur, or the Sacred Heart.   This Church is even more beautiful than Notre Dame, although smaller.  Once again we had many stone steps to climb, but it was well worth it.

MARI:  The basilica was built in 1870 and is in byzantine-romanesque style.  That means the church has very rounded arches and has a more heavy feel to it than Notre Dame.  After the long walk up the steps, we were surprised to see 2 living statues, mimes dressed in white standing on pillars on either side of the steps.  They  were encouraging the crowd to interact with them or pose on the pillars with them..  Quite amusing.

Once inside the basilica the interior was lit by the stained glass windows.  Many of the altars and much of the ceiling is covered in mosaic designs and pictures.  The stations of the cross (sufferings of Jesus) were also depicted in intricate mosaic design.  What I find amazing about both cathedrals is that each has many side altars that are dedicated to different aspects of Jesus or Mary; or one of the saints.  While we were there, Mass was being celebrated and we were asked to be quiet.  We were also asked not to take photos, but unfortunately, many tourists chose to ignore the request.  There were not enough volunteers from the church to keep that part in hand.

I cannot do the interior justice.  Pictures cannot do any of what we saw justice either.  The art inside the churches and the museums have to be seen and appreciated in person.

BRUCE:  Behind the basilica is the famous art colony of Monmartre, where artists like Toulouse Latrec and  Renoir used to hang out.  Now there are a number of artists selling their wares, doing portraits on demand and other craft shops, and, of course, many cafes.  Mari almost bought something for April, but we decided to wait and tour the area, before we settled on a very quaint pink cafe.  On the upper floor of this cafe, which is now a kitchen, was a brothel during the 19th century.

Tiring of the crowds, we journeyed down to what we thought would be a very quick return to our train station.  Unfortunately our sense of direction was skewed and  what would have been a 20 minute walk, ended up several hours throughout the village of Monmartre and beyond.  The upside is that we discovered some chic shopping areas and cafes.  When we finally learned how to return to our metro station through the good graces of the locals, we ended up having dessert and a mojito in a fine restaurant.

MARI:  Wow!  I got so tired circling around and trying to find out where we were.  The maps were no help.    When we finally got to familiar territory near our metro stations, Bruce had to use the bathroom.  There were no public restrooms anywhere in this area.  We walked around looking for a place to have dessert, but couldn't decide on one.  Taking a chance, I decided to ask a friendly looking waiter if we could use their restroom.  (He only spoke Spanish).   He asked his manager who agreed.  Bruce had already walked away towards the Metro, so I had yelled for him to come back. This completely startled both the staff and patrons of the cafe.  The waiter and lady sitting near him laughed heartily.
The friendliness of the staff and perusal of the menu convinced us to stay and have dessert.  I wanted a mojito.  We also had the perfect table, inside, private alcove with a great view of the passers-by and a fresh breeze from the open window.

BRUCE AND MARI:  Then it was on our way home via the metro, where we stopped at the reknowned Rue du Cler, famous for its fresh food markets and cafes.  We picked up snacks for the room.

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