Aug. 23, The Doctor Who Experience.

After a full night of fruitless negotiations with the Druids to release Mari,  Bruce felt that it was hopeless.  Mari was resigned to her fate, manacled to the walls of cold stone in the dark.  She began look at the resources left her when suddenly she heard a familiar sound:  A wheezing and huffing and then a blue police box appeared in her cell.  A very young man with a shock of sandy hair poked his head out, looking around, saying, "oh, no, no, no, no, I'm not supposed to be here.  Wait, wait, who are you?"  He glared at Mari.  "Well, what are you waiting for?''  Mari shook the chains she was attached to.  "Oh, well," he said, we'll sort that out directly."  He walked toward Mari and drew out his sonic screwdriver, quickly releasing her from her shackles.  " Now where were you supposed to be?"  Mari informed him of how the Druids had captured her and Bruce had left to go to the hotel.  "Well, I am the Doctor and I fix things"  declared the Doctor.  Mari followed him into his Police Box (bigger on the inside, of course) and travelling back in time he returned her to Bruce before he had a chance to begin negotiations with the Druids.  "Well, nice to meet both of you Americans.    If you wish you may join me on my adventure tomorrow, meet me at Olympia Two  tomorrrow morning.  

The morning dawned cold and rainy.  Bruce decided it would be prudent to take a cab, even though it was a long distance away.  We wished we could be transported by Tardis, but was satisfied with a friendly cab driver.  Entering the Doctor Who Experience Mari collapsed in a hysterical fan-girl heap.  Using a liberal amount of smelling salts and David Tennant's picture, Bruce was able to revive her.  On  seeing David Tennant's picture Mari swooned again and was taken around the exhibits by a hospital attendant and several very nervous staffers.  Hearing that Mari had received David's autograph a few nights prior, she was forced to detail every moment in the theater and outside the stage door.  She protetsted it was "Much Ado About Nothing".   

Seriously, though we did have a wonderful adventure with the Doctor.  The exhibit was a lot of fun, utilizing all sorts of technology, computer graphics, CGI, smoke, film, noise and 3D glasses we had an adventure with the Doctor, flying inside the Tardis and meeting moveable Daleks.

When the Doctor was saved we were allowed to wander exhibits of the 11 Doctor's clothing, some of the clothing of the companions, and most of the Monsters we had seen on TV all life-size.  It was very interactive and included making your own voice  sound like a Dalek and a cyber-man.  There were several screening theaters, a life size replica of the room where the artists create the characters and to our utter delight, a place where we had pictures taken with the Tardis, inside and out.  That was fun.  We are proudly bringing these home and hope to post them on Facebook.

We had dinner at an authentic English Pub and enjoyed the company of our waitress, Ebha, (Eva) an Irish young lady that is trying to get into the University here.  We topped everything off with a shared piece of decadent chocolate fudge cake, which probably shortened our life by several years.  Medics were standing by.

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Private Tour, August 22

We were scheduled to meet our tour driver at 7:45 in the morning.  While Mari was finishing breakfast, Bruce went outside to check and saw a big bus there.  Then he heard a gentleman call his name and much to his delight he found out not only going to be in a mini van, but we were the only guests.  We had the tour guide to ourselves.  We felt like celebrities getting a private tour.  Our driver, Jude, was a wealth of information, anecdotes and jokes.  He was a great deal of fun, and tailored the trip to our desires.

When he found out I was a Doctor Who fan, he detoured to show me the only blue police box left in London and where the Doctor Who Experience would be.

Our first stop was Avebury (pronounced   ave(long a silent e) bury.  Jude told us about the local history of how the town was built in the middle of the stones whose origin has long since been forgotten.  The huge stones were in two separate rings,  made from stones from about 2-3 miles away.  They mostly were at least 6-15 feet tall.  The stones had been broken and removed as much as possible by the local vicar in remote times, but a local man made a map of the stones so that in later years when they decided to resurrect the site, they knew which stones went where.

The setting was pastoral and serene.  The stones are able to be touched and we sat on the Devil's seat.  Jude, when he realized we had lost our camera, graciously took many pictures of us throughout the tour, including the one on Devil's seat.  We wandered around a bit and came to the "Wishing Tree", which looks like one tree with an extra large trunk.  When you come close you realize that the tree is 4 trees with roots intertwined.  I took a piece of sheep's wool I found near the stones and tied it to a branch that was laden with ribbons and made a wish.

On the way to Glastenbury (an hour away)  We saw a white chalkstone horse, about 50 feet high and probably just as wide emblazoned on a hillside.  These use to be common as a sign of allegiance to ruling king at the time.  There had been a crop circle here, but it had been mowed over.

As we were nearing Glastenbury we saw a tall hill with a white tower on it.  This is thought to be the site of Camelot and the entrance to the isle of Faery.    We had no idea about the history of either Avebury or Glastenbury so everything we saw and heard were all bonus.

Jude told us that in about the 11th or 12th century that someone dug around the walls of the abbey looking for evidence of Camelot.  He found a large tree trunk,  it is there  he found the skeletons of King Arthur and Queen Guineviere, with a sign that said here lies King Arthur and Queen Guinevere in with the bodies.  There was a third body, unidentified.  The monks buried the King and Queen in a marble tomb inside  the Abbey

In the 16th Century Richard Whiting, Abbot of Glastenbury, refused to convert to the Church of England.  (This was one of the most powerful and rich abbies of England.  King Henry VIII had the whole abbey destroyed knocked down stone by stone.   He also emptied all the crypts and tombs in the Abbey.   Richard Whiting and 2 monks died horrible deaths, executed at the orders of Henry VIII.   Only a portion of the Abbey survives, but enough to demonstrate how grand it was.  There are artists renditions of the Abbey in its height of glory.     It is now surrounded by 30 of the original acreage that includes gardens, manicured lawns, park benches, etc.

Stepping into downtown Glastenbury was like going into Woodstock 1969 with new age and hippies and head shops all co-existing.  We had a tasty lunch at a historical old pub.

When we left Glastenbury we took a short side trip to the healing waters where Joseph of Arimethea was supposed to have visited and hidden the Holy Grail and nails used for crucifixion.  After drinking the cold metallic tasting water, Mary and I were magically transformed overnight into teenagers.  Imagine Brent and April's surprise when they find out they are older than we are when we arrive home.  Mary also waded in the water and can now dance like a pro.

Everyone has seen pictures of Stonehenge, so there is no need to describe it.  But when you visit the site, it is very mystical.  It's fun to theorize about it's origins.  There was a village of about 4,000 people nearby.  It's possible they built it in a similar manner to how the Egyptians built the pyramids, but it's perfectly geometrical and acts as a sundial/calendar/holidaymarker of sorts. It is exactly fifteen miles from Avebury to Stonehenge in a direct line.  The line is marked with similar configurations of stones.    Mari chipped off a piece of Stonehenge for Bill, whereupon Druids immediately emerged from behind the stones and dragged  her off kicking and screaming to the cheers of bystanders to God knows what fate.  Sadly, Jude and I continued our journey back to the hotel.

Sunday, August 21 --- Jersey Boys and The Tower

Caught the Big Bus again and rode around until we got off at the Tower of London.  Saw the torture room, the thickness of the walls.  Saw a variety of towers where the people were held until they were either released or executed.

Interestingly enough, the queens were not executed in public, but had private executions within the walls of this ancient compex.  There is a memorial where they died.  So much history took place in this tower that it is difficult to drink in what you are seeing and understand the length and breadth of it.


We took the bus to Trafalgar Square and walked to the Theatre District/Soho and were able to get very good tickets to Jersey Boys for 25 pounds each.

Before the performance we had lunch at another delightful Italien cafe,  where our Croatian waitress proved to be delightful company.  We talked a lot about the theatre district and her life.

Jersey Boys was a wonderful musical.  We knew we would enjoy the music because we love the 4 Seasons, but did not realize how dramatic their lives were.  The musical did a great job of intertwining the lives of the group with their music.  Quite moving.  The 4 leads did a marvelous job of acting, dancing and singing.  Especially notable was the actor who played Frankie Valli.

We went to another cafe for dessert and had profiteroles.  Bruce is in heaven, with more chocolate delights at another outdoor cafe.  So much fun to be surrounded by people laughing, joking and enjoying one another's company.  The Bobbies had to break up several people who were getting too rowdy, but the district felt safe and comfortable.  Bruce feels that the West End Theatre District is a wide open place with everyone free to be who they are.

Bus Tour

The day started sunny again so we decided to do the Big Bus London tour to get a better lay of the land.  We started at Madame Tussaud’s waxworks where the lines were horrendous.  So glad neither of us wished to go there.  We paid for 48 hours of bus rides and proceeded to take in the narrated sites.  Bruce was very happy to take the tour and we were guided to several places we wouldn’t have seen:  21 Downing St.,  Eaton Place where Upstairs/Downstairs was filmed and many famous people such as Sean Connery and Lawrence Olivier had resided.  We took this tour around the entire city drinking in all the famous sights:  Buckingham Palace, the Thames River, The London Eye, Westminister Abbey, Big Ben, Chesea, Soho, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, etc., etc.  

We left the bus at Baker Street, where we visited the eminent sleuth’s house.  This was so much fun.  They even had a pen, looking like a hypodermic needle, with the 7% solution in it.  Checked out several rock and roll gift shops, nearby.  

After this, we returned to our bus tour to get to Trafalgar Square.  When we arrived there, there was a preacher yelling out in the center and a very good street musician singing on the side.  Very busy and intriguing as well as beautiful.  Everything in the square was interactive:  people sitting, laying and lounging on the stone lions.

We walked from Trafalgar to the Buckingham Palace, which is blocked by tall  black wrought iron gates tipped in gold.  The Queen’s Coat of Arms was emblazoned everywhere.  Most amazing were the guards standing at attention right outside the palace, each one outside his little tin station, each one not moving a muscle.

We walked through the James Garden and into Green Park watching the people and ducks.  Near one of the gates to the park, a man was feeding the squirrels from his hands, one even climbed on his arms, but most of the time he made them behave and eat while perched on the fence.  All of the pigeons, ducks and geese were quite polite, looking at us hungrily as we walked by.  In the middle of one pond we saw white pelicans, so much larger than any of the other birds in the park.  Also notable were the black swans.

Nearing Piccadilly Street, we saw a band playing in the park under a striped awning.  People were lounging on rented chairs in the sunshine while listening to the music.

We left Piccadilly Street to go down a side street to find food.  We stopped at another Italian restaurant where we had a nice dinner.   Bruce was so hungry he ordered 2 main dishes:  a avocado salmon salad and a pizza.  He almost polished off both with dessert.  The dessert was chocolate profiteroles, one of his favorites.  

We were a little turned around on the walk home, but finally got to Oxford Street, the main shopping district.  It was getting dark and we had walked a lot today so we hailed a cab and got back to our hotel to rest for another busy day tomorrow.

Scream, scream...David Tennant and Catherine Tate

Interesting day.  Bruce went to run and I had breakfast at the hotel and then went for a walk.  We both ended up choosing the same places to be, although we didn’t see each other.  It was a beautiful day with blue skies, a cool breeze and NO RAIN!!!  We decided to meet up about three to get ready for the theater.

I went to Regent Park,  which is a lovely green area with soccer fields, a duck pond, the London Zoo and some formal gardens.  I spoke with several gardeners who said that a lot of what they have in the garden are perennials, but one of the main gardeners said sometimes they get space to do special projects and her group of gardeners had planned an herbaceous garden that was just around the corner.  There were large green spaces, beds of green as well as purples and reds, bright splashes of oranges and yellows as well as whites.  The spray of the formal fountains added to the beauty of the park.  People ran and strolled around the park.  There is a fabulous energy to the place.  

I also went to Queen Mary’s Royal Garden which is full of over 30,000 blooms and I think 600 species.  Amazing!  I strolled slowly, seeing which roses had the greatest fragrance.  There is another pond in the middle of this garden, full of different ducks and wildlife.  I wrote down descriptions of the ducks and birds so that I can find out what they are.  

In the middle of the pond there is a small island that contains a Japanese Garden, that isn’t as calming as one would expect.  They have built a waterfall to the side of the island that can be heard all over.  The water foams over the stones, rushing it’s way to the bottom.  A smaller brook trickles more peacefully around the inner parts of this garden.  At another edge a black stone spread-winged hawk poses to strike, beak open.  (The ducks nest peacefully under his open beak.)  There are beautiful willows, their green hair towering in graceful garlands over the pond.  I found a stone to sit and enjoy the beauty.

Continuing on, I went to 22 Baker Street, where I almost went into the Sherlock Holmes Museum, but didn’t go because the queue was too long.  The gift shop was fun to visit.

Stopped at a lovely pub for lunch, where I was able to buy a large meatball sub sandwich with a half pint of lager.  The staff was quite friendly.  I was only able to eat half the lunch so I took the rest back to Bruce.  

Bruce spent all morning at St. Regent’s park, too, and then went to St. Pancras Station, where they filmed the Railway Station for Harry Potter both inside and out.

We got all dressed up for a special night.  My heart was beating in my chest a mile a minute as I got ready.  We were going to see Much Ado about Nothing in London’s West End Theater District.

We left at 5:00 and took a taxi down.  Bruce had us pick up our tickets right away and tried without success to wangle a special meeting with David Tennant.  He even spoke with the Stage Door Manager.  

While waiting for the theater we stopped at an outdoor table at an Italian Restaurant:  the food was amazing, the wait staff very attentive.  While we ate we watched the flow of people rush by, a babble of languages, colors and gender orientation.  Everyone was enjoying a Friday night out in London’s theater district which was flashing with marquee colors and delicious with the smell of different foods.

We walked down Charing Cross road to find Jersey Boys, so we could book tickets.  We will probably go back there on Sunday at 5:00 to see if we can snag some.  After talking with the box office people there, it was time for the performance of Much Ado About Nothing.

We had second row seats in the intimate Wydnham theater.  The first row was so close to the stage you had to crane your neck and could touch the stage.  I was so excited to see one of my favorite actors so up close and personal.  

The curtain opened with Catherine Tate who handled her part beautifully and with great wit.  David Tennant comes on stage with a roar, driving a golf cart load of officers to meet with the person who owns the home.  Every single person in the play was excellent.  I have to say it was a great ensemble cast, and though many people’s attentions were on Tate and Tennant, everyone had a moment in which they commanded the stage.  Of course David and Catherine had great interplay with each other, but definitey it was not the David of Doctor Who or Catherine as Donna the companion.  Benedict has a large role in the play, as does Beatrice, so there was no lack of those two stars as the play went on.  The staging was very fresh and contemporary.  I was within 5 feet of David and Catherine many times during the play.  There was one scene with Benedict in drag as Miss Piggy and David seemed to enjoy hamming it up to the hilt.  Catherine Tate was in another in which she is listening to the others talking about Benedict’s love for her and she gets hoisted by a hook up to the ceiling while the others pretend not to see her.    Both actors are much as you see them on television, and yes, David is as cute as you think and plays the role quite energetically and charismatically.  He and Catherine work quite well together.  I had read one review in which Miss Tate was chided for not having the depth to play the tragic part of the play, but I think she did quite well as of course did Tennant.

Because everything was done so well Bruce had a great time too.  I found myself enjoying all of the play and each performer was wonderful.

At the end of the play, Bruce stood by the side while I wormed my way into the crowd at the back of the theater who were trying to see David Tennant and  Catherine Tate.  No one was pushing in on them, everyone was waiting respecfully.  I asked people if I could come in closer, as I had a program to get signed and they let me get in arm’s reach.   Unfortunatelly, I could only see the tops of their heads but each actor graciously autographed my program.  The actors who played Don John and Hero rushed by, looking like they did not wish to be bothered, but I was able to get signatures from many of the other actors.

We ended the night with pastries and coffee across the street from the theater.  My program is now residing in our hotel room safe until we leave.

First full day in London -- totally soaked

Wow!  By this time next week  we will be flying home.  So hard to believe.  Many blessings, some hardships, lots and lots of walking, interesting times.

Today we had an early breakfast and then rested in our room before leaving about 10:00.  It was very dreary and looked like rain, but we decided to skip the umbrella (my idea which Bruce agreed with).

When we left our hotel, it was very cool outside, I felt chilly in my jean skirt and short sleeved top,   Bruce was cold.  We walked about 1 mile to  Oxford Street, found an H&M  department store where we picked up warm sweaters and a hoodie for Bruce.  We headed for the beautiful green spaces of Hyde Park and enjoyed a nice long walk before it began to rain lightly, then more hard.  After searching (almost desperately) we found a coffee shop in the Serpentine Gallery of Kensington Gardens  where we had hot chocolate, hot tea and a delicious chocolate-raspberry brownie.  BTW, April, we should have both packed a nice warm jacket, but it was fun shopping in London.

It continued to pour down as we searched for a place to buy umbrellas.  We took a break from the rain at the College of London  where we found free toilets, and chairs to wait out some of the rain.  A gentleman from the UK sat down near us and he and Bruce began to talk about how different the WWII experiences were for us Americans and for the British and French who fought the war on their own soil.   Bruce’s Dad  had served in the Solomon Islands and his Dad had served in the RAF.  He spoke of how few historic buildings in London had survived the Blitz unlike Paris whose Vichy government collaborated with the Germans and had all their historic buildings untouched. 

As soon as the rain simmered down, we left the building wishing the gentleman a good day.  We soon found a London tacky gift shop and bought two cheap umbrellas that threatened to fall apart as soon as the wind picked up.  It was very cold, but Bruce was determined.  He had made his mind up to go to Notting Hill.    We found an Antique bookstore close to Notting Hill where we took a look around.  The store had books by Jules Verne that I had not known he had written.  He had many, many old editions and was kind enough to supply me with a paper towel so I could wipe my hands before touching books.  I saw a folio of T.S. Eliot’s works that cost 200 pounds.  Not sure Brent would really like that 200 pounds worth.  

Through admirable perseverance and Bruce’s determination we made it to the edge of Notting Hill  where we found Prince Albert Pub, which was truly a local hangout.  I got 2 different half pints of beer and Bruce had a coke and lemonade.  We shared a platter of munchies and a salad.  The food was quite good and I had a chance to sample the British chips, although most people were eating them with ketchup instead of the traditional salt and vinegar.    The finale of our meal was a shared plum and raspberry warm tart with homemade vanilla ice cream; the perfect touch to warm us up.

Interestingly enough, all ordering is done at the bar, including food.  We waited quite a while before we discovered this, since I finally decided to go up to the bar to get us some drinks.  Not sure we tipped enough, though.

Took the bus home from the pub, but got off way before our stop due to misreading  and then was sent off in the wrong direction by a person who was waiting nearby.  We walked an extra mile in the cold rain and Bruce allowed me to wear his new hoodie over my sweater because I was so cold.  

So, warm and safe now in our hotel.  The maid had removed our key from our room:  Bruce’s worries were correct; so he had to check with the front desk and they cancelled that key.  Really weird.  

So...tomorrow, maybe David Tennant.....really hope we didn’t screw up the dates!!!  I am so Excited.

Leaving Paris, Hello London

Busy day, with mixed reviews.  We were sorry to leave Paris.  The weather was a bit uncertain in Paris, but each day the weather became sunny and warm.  We walked everywhere.  And everywhere we went it was beautiful. Everyone was in a holiday mood and we met with delightful Parisians who were courteous and did their best to help us in any way they could.

Sadly we left our hotel a 9 a.m. after a lovely breakfast.  The cab took us to a very large train station:  Rue du Nord, where we picked up the Eurostar.  Unhappily I had left our camera in the cab, which our driver said he would return to our Hotel.   I think it really helped that Bruce gave a huge tip to the driver.   So, several days from now we should be getting new photos taken. 

The Eurostar trip was without incident.  We had spacious comfortable seats and were able to take all of our luggage onboard.  Surprisingly they served a tasty brunch with wine and coffee.  We had a nice conversation with a young German girl who was interning in marketing.   Her grandmoher had fought in the resistance and she mentioned that the French were very prejudiced against the Germans, lumping them all in one category.   She was taking a business trip to London and appeared quite excited about it.  She had difficulty in making her connections because her train in Germany had been cancelled.  The next train was so crowded, she had to sit on the floor the whole way to the Rue du Gard.  There was nice scenery throughout the French counryside, but nothing spectacular.  The arrival station, Pancras Station in London was the same as Harry Potter used when he went to school, very impressive, but I wasn’t quite sure how they set it up for the movies.

We walked to the hotel:  A busy street in the business district full of men and women in black or charcoal suits...very uniform, bustling and intense.  The sky was grey and the day cool.  The buildings around us were  modern and made of glass.  Bruce expressed his disappointment and desire to have stayed in Paris.  Our hotel is lovely, but not the wonderful intimate hotel we had in France.  We had to wait to check in, wait 2 hours for our room and the front desk was bustling, but not too friendly.  

The room is quite nice, though a bit small.  Everything has an extra price except breakfast.  They want 18.00 Pounds for a day of internet and  53 British Pounds for 25 hours of premium tv.   We’ll go to the wifi cafe to get our internet.  

After me having a long nap, we left the hotel after buying an umbrella.  We had to walk a bit, but found a very satisfactory restaurant with friendly waiters who found us a quiet seat.  ( Most of the restaurants and pubs were packed with locals, no tables to be found.  We were a little suspicious of those restaurants which had few or no patrons.)

We ordered salmon and braised beef shanks.  The food was delicious and not too expensive.  During the meal we spoke to the 2 women sitting next to us, asking for advice and directions.  They were delightful:  one is a tribunal who helps decide medical wrong-doing and parent-child conflict cases; the other is a counselor at a college.  The latter spoke with me and we talked shop.  Bruce had a good time speaking with the other woman, who spoke of racism in the UK as there are only 3% Blacks in the UK population.   The two women have been friends for over 30 years and were willing to share their brief time together with us.  So sad that life has to have such brief meetings.

They oriented us towards our hotel and we said goodbye and swiftly walked back to our hotel glad for a better orientation to the new town.  Tomorrow we get our metro tickets and learn to navigate this more complicated city.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

We spent our last full day in Paris by getting up at 6:00 a.m. to take a trip to Giverny and the artist Claude Monet's house and gardens.  Later in this trip we went to Versailles and visited even more amazing gardens.  There is no way to describe the splendor and opulence and total self indulgence of the kings of France, including the ill-fated Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.

Sandwiched in between we stopped at a quaint pastoral setting where there was a country inn that served us all delicious luncheon.  I took many pictures of the French cows for Brent and then was informed that even though they lived in France the black and white cows are Dutch cows.

During the tour we met a 4-5th grade teacher named Colleen, from Melbourne, Australia.  We adopted each other and enjoyed the bus ride.  We also met two couples celebrating their 30th birthdays, a brother and sister with their spouses, originally from Kansas.  We would have loved to have spent much more time in the Gardens of Versailles but were sort of forced to finish the indoor tour first.  We only  had about 45 minutes to explore about 1,000 acre park, which was disappointing.  We got a good taste of what was there, but would advise any other person to go to just the gardens in the beautiful weather and take the metro from Paris.

However, I loved Giverny and Monet's gardens are inspiring and relaxing, especially his japanese garden.  I hadn't known that he loved Japanese art.  His home was filled with it.

At the end of the day, we picked up a souvenir for Bruce from the shops on Rue du Rivoli and walked until we found our favorite cafe.  We spent our last night enjoying a delicious dinner, and the great chocolate cake for dessert.

Monday, August 15, 2011

Monday we got a late start and we decided to head to the Pompideau Center, the Museum for Contemporary Art.  It was a great contrast to the Louvre and the classical artists, as it contains original works of the great artists of the 20th Century:  Picasso, Dali, Andy Warhol, Matisse, and the artists that were their contemporaries.  It seems that all of these people collaborated in order to create the different schools of modern art.

The building itself is a work of art, with plenty of glass on the exterior, with a red escalator on the outside of the building.  On the 6th floor we had great views of the city.  The courtyard was exactly what we thought Monmarte would be:  artisans displaying original works and crafting them before our eyes, street dancers and musicians.  There was an electric feeling of creative energy in the air.

We ate at an outdoor cafe at Happy Hour where Mari had delicious mojitos and was feeling no pain as we headed back.

Sunday, August 14

Wow!  Three days since we blogged.  We have been extremely busy running around the city and taking in the sights.  We have climbed more stairs than I thought existed in the world.  People watching is one of our favorite activities and we have eaten at least once a day in an outdoor cafe.  I think that a book on the shoes of Paris, with photos taken of them from a cafe would be marvelous.  The variety of footwear for both men and women is astounding.  Food at the cafes is very good and filling.

BRUCE:  Sunday we walked to the Luxembourg Gardens, considered by some to be the prettiest gardens in the city.  We enjoyed watching children sail their old fashioned sailboats in the ponds, pushing them off at one side of the pond with their sticks and running to the other side to catch them with their sticks.

Mari:  I had a nice chat with an Irish woman who offered to take our picture.  She was there with the oldest of their four children, taking a holiday after returning her great aunt, a nun, back to Paris.

Bruce:   It was a long walk there and back (Mari:  my feet attest to that) and we discovered some new neighborhoods.

Saturday, Aug. 13

Mari:  The morning started with a drizzle, so we decided to visit the Military Museum and Tomb of Napoleon.   As we got to less protected areas the wind picked up and it became cooler.  In addition it began to pour.  We reached the museum in the nick of time.

We weren't quite sure what to expect with this museum.  I thought it sounded interesting, but Bruce wanted to give it a pass.  It was a happy circumstance for me that the day was rainy and we wished to do something indoors.  When we entered the museum we made a turn into the part where they displayed ancient armor.

I found this section amazing.  Such a varied way to both protect the combatant and to kill others.  The museum laid it out in a manner that we saw the evolution of armor, weapons and how we became more and more organized  and efficient in mass killing.  Still, the armor and the swords were beautiful.  They started nobles and royalty in the art of war at the tender age of six.  We saw many suits of armor made to fit children.

The second place we visited was the Tomb of Napoleon, encased in a huge red marble tomb.  It turns out there are coffins within coffins within coffins until his coffin can be reached.  His large tomb is in the middle of an enormous cathedral and we viewed his tomb from the second floor, which is opened in a circle so you can view the tomb and the twelve victories (statues) that guard him.  At the end of the nave of the church elevated above the tomb is an altar with a lot of white and gold.  The whole place is extremely ornate with ceiling murals everywhere and everything to honor Napoleon.  It felt like he was like our George Washington with the honor they give him.

We headed to the World War I and World War II memorials.  Bruce was extremely emotional about WWII because his father, Edward Peterson, had fought in the Pacific Theater in the Solomon Islands.
He also had an great uncle who died in WWI and his grandfather served in the same war and eventually reached Paris.

These memorials are very sentimental to the French people because the wars were fought on French soil.    Particularly moving were the displays devoted to the resistance in WWI, their courage significantly contributed to the ultimate defeat of the Germans.  Many of the French did not want to surrender to the Germans, but their leader, Petain, did.  DeGaulle urged the French to not surrender and left for Britain to
continue the fight.  One can see why DeGaulle is so revered in France.  He was an amazing and brave man.

Seeing the film footage of him leading the victory parade in Paris in 1944 is inspirational.  Many thoughts of my Dad during this visit, and of the courage of the French resistance.  50 million soldiers in WWII  and 30 million civilians.

DeGaulle also set up plans for the new French government while he was abroad so no one would take over for the French.

The rain stopped, we left the museum and exited through some beautiful gardens.  We headed south to explore a new area.  We found a wonderful cafe in this area and ordered dinner.  The cafe was in a busy intersection with traffic from three sides.  There was a lot of foot traffic.  Our  outside end table was great for people watching.   It was the best meal yet, topped by a fabulous shared chocolate cake that had melted chocolate in the middle.

We headed further south and decided on the spur of the moment to go to the Eiffel Tower.  We walked through the Champs du Mars (a large park) to the Tower and got in an enormous line to buy our tickets.  Our museum passes do not work here.  Waiting in line we started a conversation with a lovely young couple.  The man, Craig, is from Scotland and the woman, Jeneen is from New York.  They met while working on a cruise ship and began dating.   Bruce and Craig share the same wicked sense of humor, so the line went fast and soon we were at the ticket booth.  Jeneen enjoyed some of my Paris pictures, especially those from the Louvre with the male statues.

We took the elevator up to the second floor and had to wait in line for tickets to the top.  Bruce had a nice chat with a gentleman from Sweden.  The top was very crowded, but we still had time for romantic views and walked around the perimeter identifying sights we had seen before and noting new ones.  While we were up there the Tower lit for the first time that night.   The crowd below cheered.  It was a special evening.

Friday, August 12 -- Sacre Coeur and Monmartre

BRUCE:  Today was another day of new adventures.  We took the metro, the underground rail system,which is used throughout Paris.  With help from a local woman, and the ticket agents we were able to figure out our transportation for the whole day.  Our destination Sacre Coeur, the highest point in Paris upon which sits the famous basilica, Sacre Coeur, or the Sacred Heart.   This Church is even more beautiful than Notre Dame, although smaller.  Once again we had many stone steps to climb, but it was well worth it.

MARI:  The basilica was built in 1870 and is in byzantine-romanesque style.  That means the church has very rounded arches and has a more heavy feel to it than Notre Dame.  After the long walk up the steps, we were surprised to see 2 living statues, mimes dressed in white standing on pillars on either side of the steps.  They  were encouraging the crowd to interact with them or pose on the pillars with them..  Quite amusing.

Once inside the basilica the interior was lit by the stained glass windows.  Many of the altars and much of the ceiling is covered in mosaic designs and pictures.  The stations of the cross (sufferings of Jesus) were also depicted in intricate mosaic design.  What I find amazing about both cathedrals is that each has many side altars that are dedicated to different aspects of Jesus or Mary; or one of the saints.  While we were there, Mass was being celebrated and we were asked to be quiet.  We were also asked not to take photos, but unfortunately, many tourists chose to ignore the request.  There were not enough volunteers from the church to keep that part in hand.

I cannot do the interior justice.  Pictures cannot do any of what we saw justice either.  The art inside the churches and the museums have to be seen and appreciated in person.

BRUCE:  Behind the basilica is the famous art colony of Monmartre, where artists like Toulouse Latrec and  Renoir used to hang out.  Now there are a number of artists selling their wares, doing portraits on demand and other craft shops, and, of course, many cafes.  Mari almost bought something for April, but we decided to wait and tour the area, before we settled on a very quaint pink cafe.  On the upper floor of this cafe, which is now a kitchen, was a brothel during the 19th century.

Tiring of the crowds, we journeyed down to what we thought would be a very quick return to our train station.  Unfortunately our sense of direction was skewed and  what would have been a 20 minute walk, ended up several hours throughout the village of Monmartre and beyond.  The upside is that we discovered some chic shopping areas and cafes.  When we finally learned how to return to our metro station through the good graces of the locals, we ended up having dessert and a mojito in a fine restaurant.

MARI:  Wow!  I got so tired circling around and trying to find out where we were.  The maps were no help.    When we finally got to familiar territory near our metro stations, Bruce had to use the bathroom.  There were no public restrooms anywhere in this area.  We walked around looking for a place to have dessert, but couldn't decide on one.  Taking a chance, I decided to ask a friendly looking waiter if we could use their restroom.  (He only spoke Spanish).   He asked his manager who agreed.  Bruce had already walked away towards the Metro, so I had yelled for him to come back. This completely startled both the staff and patrons of the cafe.  The waiter and lady sitting near him laughed heartily.
The friendliness of the staff and perusal of the menu convinced us to stay and have dessert.  I wanted a mojito.  We also had the perfect table, inside, private alcove with a great view of the passers-by and a fresh breeze from the open window.

BRUCE AND MARI:  Then it was on our way home via the metro, where we stopped at the reknowned Rue du Cler, famous for its fresh food markets and cafes.  We picked up snacks for the room.

Aug. 11th Thursday

BRUCE:  Walked several miles of the Right Bank of the Seine to the Louvre.  Just looking at the exterior of the Louvre is amazing, from inside the courtyard and outside the walls.  Once again our pass made us feel like royalty with quick access to the inside.  Talk about insane!!   People were everywhere, rushing to and fro, tour groups, individuals, couples, children:  what a madhouse.

MARI:  Very cool to see the Glass Pyramid when we entered this grandiose courtyard:  all cobblestoned and surrounded on all sides by towering long buildings each festooned with decorative windows, historic statues and various embellishments of cherubs, winged angels and stone drapery.  And, of course, what would a courtyard be withouts a grand hero astride his faithful stallion.  

Once inside we were in an amazing crowd of people--all countries and races were represented, as well as the very young to the very old.  People in general were hushed and respectful once we reached the paintings.

BRUCE:  After buying a guidebook, we headed towards the Mona Lisa.  After climbing a number of stairs, we viewed the famous  Winged Victory statue, which dominated the landing at the top of the first floor.  By the way, there are four floors covering all centuries and more than 12 miles.  As expected, as we reached the Mona Lisa, the crowds pushed close to view the famous picture which is about the size of a large, framed poster.  It is truly beautiful, but the people straining to see it, made the viewing experience quite stressful.  One lady shoved me from behind and even used a knuckle to bore into my back.  I spoke to her harshly, and she seemed chastened.  

All the famous works of art we saw today were inspiring to be in their presence.  There were a number of benches in each wing, so we could sit, rest, and people watch, while looking at the artwork above and around you.  Some other works we saw were Athena, Venus de Milo,  more DaVinci artwork, mostly religious,  also the Greek gods: Hercules, Pan, Mercury and Psyche, as well as Mercury alone.  And famous paintings by Raphael, Gaughin, Goya, El Greco...  Some of the paintings were enormous almost covering the entire wall.  I got tired of the idealistic images of cherubic babies, angels and biblical images and favored the realistic art and sculpture.  The Greek sculpture was housed in rooms with Marble Walls.  

How many Art museums could fit into this enormous museum.  What an assault on the senses.  I was left with a couple of impressions:  one is that it is difficult to appreciate the beauty and technique you are witnessing with so many people around you, and two, I think Chicago's Art Institute is still a marvelous place to view original works.

MARI:  When we entered the museum, we had to go down several flights of stairs and then we had to pick from an array of staircases which led to different galleries.  We wished to get to the Mona Lisa before the area became too crowded.  All we had to do was follow the crowd, as most were there to see the famous lady.  

A crowd stopped on the staircase, and as we looked up we saw the awesome sculpture of winged victory.  We were able to spend time with this fabulous figure by walking around her and looking at her from a 360 degree perspective.  Truly inspiring.    

The Mona Lisa is behind glass all alone on one wall.  Even though it was not yet eleven a.m.  there was a pushing and shoving crowd around the world famous painting.  I was disappointed that crowd control was not better, as I wished for several minutes to inspect and enjoy viewing the famous painting by DaVinci.  We saw a vast array of  paintings, some very dark, some vibrant with color.  It is difficult to concentrate on viewing because of the massive sensory overload:  huge crowds of people everywhere we went and so many paintings it was difficult to appreciate the beauty of each one.    One that we had walked by in a rush to see the Mona Lisa surprised us.  When we slowed down we saw the grandeur, detail and amazing depth and perspective of the artist  Giovanni Paulo Pannini. .  During our time in the Renaissance Gallelry, Bruce discovered that by sitting down we could appreciate each gallery much more.

The Ancient Greek sculptures were so different than those of Rodin.  Each person was depicted with normal (but idealized) physical structure and the faces were quite individual.  I enjoyed the various depictions of Athena, which ranged from feminine to masculine and foreboding.  Now I need to read up on my Greek Mythology.

BRUCE:  We left the Louvre in the late afternoon for Lunch in the Latin Quarter.  We had to cross the Seine to reach a bustling district of shops, restaurants, and novelty stands.  After lunch, we returned to the Right Bank, just south of the Louvre where we visited enormous gardens of Tuillieres.  We rested with a view of the fountain and found a cafe for dessert.  Bruce had a huge banana split and Mari had here long-awaited  apricot and lemon sorbet.  Tips are normally included in the bill, but Bruce thought the waiter was very good, so he gave him another 5 Euros.  

What is so nice about the fountains is that there are green chairs spread all around them and around the gardens for viewing.  The chairs are movable, not bolted down.  Somehow, nobody steals them in Paris. Unfortunately this does not happen in the U.S.  Most gratifying is that everywhere we go, the grounds, walkways, etc., seem clean.    

We has a romantic stroll down the Place du Concorde as the night began to fall.

MARI:

On the side of the Tuillieres is an amusement park.  On my walk back up the hill, I noticed a ball with people in it attached to two elastic bands being bounced up into the sky and down.    It looked like a lot like bungee jumping but more secure.  Walking closer,  I found the ball unused and noticed there were two seats in the ball.  A sign said that there would positively be no refunds if you paid the 20E for the ride.  Tempting, but I decided not to bite.

We found a really cute outdoor cafe that served dessert, so each of us ordered one.  Bruce's banana split (of course I had to have one bite) was delicious.  Of my apricot and lemon sorbet, I preferred the lemon.

A perfect end, to a wonderful day, we walked back as dusk fell, satisfied and a bit weary.

Wednesday, August 10th--Arc d'Triumph and Musee Rodin

After another very filling breakfast at the hotel, we took a different route to the Champs d'Elysees, taking us past some of the most expensive retail shops in the world like Prada and Chanel.  You have to make an appointment to buy a dress.  We also passed extremely expensive residences.  This route allowed us to reach the Champs d''Elyseea quicker than yesterday.  Exchanged dollars for euros at a higher rate today because the market rebounded, and was able to get 61 cents on the dollar.  Took another captivating stroll down the Avenue to our destination,  the Arc de Triomphe at the Place Charles de Gaulle.  One of the world's busiest turn-arounds, cars fly around at high speeds.  The traffic route is so confusing that insurance companies automatically split accidents 50/50,  have given up trying to figure out who is at fault.

Took a tunnel under the turn-around to reach the Arc.  Once there, our museum pass allowed us instant access and we walked up 284 steps in a very narrow winding staircase surrounded by a stone wall and an iron railing.  Stepping over dead tourists, we finally reached the top.  The views were spectacular in every direction.  The wind was heavy up there and many men were happy to see that some female tourists wore dresses.  Mari had a conversation with a couple from England who told her about the view towards the financial district.  They were also jealous because she has tickets to see David Tennant in Much Ado about Nothing and they hadn't been able to get tickets to Hamlet which he starred in last year,  playing right in their own town.

After drinking in the sites, we climbed down the 284 stairs and headed back down the Avenue.  People watching is a real treat.  We saw everyone from jet-setters and models to french families on vacation and other people from around the world.  Stopping at benches along the way we continued walking.

At the end of the Champs d' Elysees, there are multiple gardens all of which are beautiful.  People were sitting out and  taking their lunch breaks.  We continued left to the Place de la Concorde which is a magnificent, panoramic square.  It was at the Place de la Concorde where thousands of French aristocracy were guillotined.  To mark the spot, the French imported an Egyptian obelisk, hundreds of feet tall.  It is sobering to stand in the spot where so many people lost their lives so dreadfully while thousands cheered.

We then took the Concorde bridge across the Seine, again viewing fabulous cruise ships and the waterway.  We walked past the National Assembly guarded by young French Legionnaires, to the Rodin Museum.

Bruce has always loved the sculptures of Rodin, including the Thinker (Mari has always loved The Kiss).  Once again our passes allowed us instant access and we entered a world of abject beauty.  The beautiful gardens  were  full of hydrangeas, roses, sculptured shrubbery,  and benches.  Highlighting the garden were Rodin's sculptures: "The Thinker',  "Balzac", "The Gates of Hell", "The Six Burghers of Calais" (about to be hanged), "Adam", "Meditation" (a lady) and many more.

We ate lunch in the Garden Cafe where Bruce knocked his bottle of Coke onto his clothing.  For reasons of propriety, he decided not to use the restroom until his pants dried.  The lunch was delicious and we each ordered a beautiful and tasty pastry.  The only problem was the yellow jackets surrounding our table.  We moved inside after killing thousands. (Sorry, Brent)

We then visited the inside display which was housed in a number of rooms on 2 levels and featured masterpieces like "The Kiss", "The Lovers", a smaller "Thinker", "Eve", and the mockup for the Gates of Hell.  

Encountered a Chinese family from Vancouver, Canada, whose mother noticed we had the same Paris travel book.  He's a computer programmer and she is an occupational therapist.  Their children are Rachel, a third grader and Nicholas soon to be eleven years old, he proudly stated.  We talked a long time about family and travel adventures on a park bench in the garden.  They were a nice accent to the day and Bruce shared some of his own adventures in Hong Kong, where both the parent were from.

The mother asked Mari quietly if she noticed anything about her son, since they had discussed that she was a special education teacher.   MARI:   I said I noticed a slight lisp, some perservation on the topic of CARS I, possibly slight hyperactivity and staying on topic.  She smiled gratefully and said that he had been diagnosed with Autism since the age of three years.  We complimented them on his progress and his great behavior.  The father beamed proudly and the mother looked greatly pleased.  Nicholas had not shown any stress with all of the changes and sensory bombardment that travel had brought into his life.

Saying our goodbyes we took a beautiful stroll back through the gardens, out into the streets and to our hotel.

We stopped at a local grocery and boulangerie to pick up food for the room.  As we write this we are not sure if we are going out tonight.  Hope everyone is doing great, and wish you could experience this amazing city (but not with us right now).

Tuesday, August 9

BRUCE:  The breakfasts at our hotel are truly filling with cereals, croissants, fruit, scrambled eggs, coffee, and juices.  We took a very long walk on the left bank of the Seine River to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame.  Many people were out, it was quite festive.  People were selling their paintings along the way, there were tour boats in the Seine River and couples and families everywhere.  Truly a postcard.

The Cathedral from the outside was imposing and extraordinary in it's architecture and size.  Great statue of Charlemagne outside, looking like Don Quixote.  Waited in a long line, because the entrance in the main cathedral was free, so our passes were not necessary.  Once we stepped inside the Cathedral, the views were spectacular, ranging from bas relief of the life of Christ, to stations of the cross, medieval confessionals, and both contemporary and ancient altars.  Many people we observed were quite moved because they have such a strong attachment to their Catholic faith.   We saw ancient sculptures,tapestries, the famous Rose windows, the enormous pipe organ and the beautiful arched ceilings.  Our museum passes could have allowed us upstairs so we could climb the towers and see where the Hunchback of Notre Dame rang the bell, but we did not want to wait in the long line, which stretched around the block.  Later we saw people walking on the top of Notre Dame.

After leaving the Cathedral we went through the Latin Quarter, where we saw interesting shops and cafes.  Mari had water and a snack of Vietnamese barbecued chicken on a stick.  We proceeded to the famous Orsay Museum.  Our museum pass allowed us to skirt huge lines.  While waiting in the smaller line we had a nice conversation with some women from Sacramento.  They said Arnold couldn't make it.  One of them took our picture.  Inside the museum, there were floors as well as multiple rooms of original paintings and scultures from artists including, Monet, Degas, Gaughin, Rodin, Manet, Renoir and Van Gogh.

Finished a long walk home drinking in the sights and sounds of a very marvelous city.  When we got back, Mari went out to a local boulangerie (bakery) and brought home sandwiches and pastries for dinner.

First Day by Bruce and Mari

Enjoyed a pleasant trip to the Detroit airport, compliments of our wonderful daughter, April.  Even had time for a tasty lunch with her in Ann Arbor.  The Air France flight was enjoyable, with excellent service and surprisingly good food.  The individual TV consoles in front of each seat helped make the ride go faster giving us choices of music, movies, TV shows and Home Depot highlights.

MARI--We were so surprised that the day ended up beautiful and warm.  It started out with thunderstorms and I was sure that the trip would be horrible and that April would have a difficult time driving back.  Both drives were without incident.  Air France had small seats, but we managed to get a little bit of rest on the way out.  As you all know, I was flying high for a week before we left, so I was beside myself before leaving home in the morning.  I had to leave April and Bruce alone and calm myself down.
Felt a bit sad leaving April at the airport.  For at least 6 years we have been taking April and Brent to airports for their adventures.  It's our turn now, and it felt awkward.  Love the time alone with Bruce, but still miss both of them.  The food, as Bruce mentioned, was really tasty:  what a surprise.  We were served both dinner and breakfast, but not enough water.  I felt quite dehydrated after the flight.  Very uncomfortable and not able to sleep.

BRUCE:  Ended waiting an extra hour and a half at the DeGaulle  airport for our shuttle because we finally realized they were going to the wrong terminal.  Apparently our driver was very frustrated with repeated trips to the wrong terminal to find us, but his employer insisted that he had to find "this very important business person, Bruce".  Our fellow travelers had fun teasing me about this.

BRUCE:  Mari had a great running conversation with a gentleman from Sacramento, asking him repeatedly if he knew David Tennant.    He kept asking "Who?"  and Mari kept answering "The Doctor, of course!" There was a delightful couple from Manchester, England, celebrating their 55th anniversary.

Our hotel is very quaint and very nice with a terrific central location.  We're on a side street named Amelie, within walking distance of almost everything we want to see.  We enjoyed an (exkiting--that's for you Sarah) walk down the Champs de L'Elyssee seeing miles of beautiful gardens, landscaping, monuments, buildings, and the Seine River.  It was very festive, with many people also out walking.  Had a lovely dinner in a very popular eatery, about 1 block from the Arc D" Triomphe, nabbed an indoor table right by the window, so we could people watch.  They do not rush you in Paris while you eat, so we spent hours people watching.  The meal was good, too.

First day, just a short walk from our hotel.

The River Seine (seine = snake)

Mari's encounter with an angel

Everything was tipped in gold

Napoleon's tomb and the World Wars'  Museum

Good Old Winston Churchill

A couple taking advantage of the romantic surroundings

Typical Parisian side street

Bruce in our first cafe in France

MARI:  I couldn't believe we arrived in Paris.  The airport and the freeway in reminded me of any large city in the word.  When we turned into the more historic area, it was amazing and exciting at the same time.  We crossed the River Seine on our first walk using the Alexander III bridge --all decorated with beautiful sculptures decorated with what looks like gold leaf.  We were amazed at the grandeur of the bridge and all the monuments around us.   As we walked (without a map) we saw the Arc d'Triomphe and realized we were on the Champs d'LEysee.  An thrilling moment.  (I think I will run out of superlatives before the end of this blog and will have to use a thesarus.)  We continued to walk, found a cash exchange and then a cafe which served simple meals with a view of people walking by.  Bruce and I had a romantic meal watching passer-bys and a man selling roses who was pestering everyone and his brother to buy a rose.  After criticizing his aggressive technique, I fell for his wiles and ended up buying a small rose for $8.00 (4 euro, quite a rip-off)....   He did entertain me for 2 hours, so I guess it was worth the entertainment value.  I don't  think he sold a rose during the time we were watching.

BRUCE:  Had a disturbing encounter with a man selling roses on our way home, but we certainly made him happier by purchasing one for $8.00.  The only bummer is the exchange rate.  It appears to be the U.S. dollar is only worth .57 in Paris.  It's gone down 7 cents because the U.S. credit rating is not AAA any more.

Also learned of violence in London, that hopefully will not be a problem when we journey there.  What a great day it was walking hand in hand with my child bride who was positively radiant in the Paris full moon light.  (Mari is typing this, so you can imagine why this last line got in.)

Free wi-fi in the room--Yay!     MARI:  Double Yay!

Mari and I thought of Brent when he stayed here some years ago and how much both children would enjoy being here.  Maybe next time.

Arrival

We have arrived and our new digs are really cute.  We are centrally located near most of the attractions and will walk almost everywhere.  The hosts at the front desk are very friendly as are most of the people we have met.  Going out to dinner now.  Will blog more later.

Here We Go

Bruce and Mari at Detroit Airport

t's 15 hours, 3 minutes before we leave.  We packed most of it last night.  I confirm our hotel this morning and we drive to the airport this afternoon.  So happy and amazed that we are doing this.  Truly can't wait.

Our beautiful driver April, with her Dad at Detroit Airport

April and Mom at Detroit Airport

It's 15 hours, 3 minutes before we leave.  We packed most of it last night.  I confirm our hotel this morning and we drive to the airport this afternoon.  So happy and amazed that we are doing this.  Truly can't wait.

Getting ready to get our e-tickets

TOMORRROW!!!

I feel like a little kid:  tomorrow! tomorrow! tomorrow!   On Monday, I'll BE in Paris.  Taking care of last minute details, confirming flights, making sure we have transport, gonna get me some skype to call everyone while we are over there....  Packing, checking lists, hanging out with AP and going out to eat.  I'm trying not to concentrate too hard on this.  It makes my heart all fluttery

More Preparation

Yeow!   Looks like it's really, really happening.  Got our prepaid money card, made sure it worked.  Checked our baggage restrictions, checked off and rewrote list of things to do and items to take.  Countdown:  5 days, one hour and fortyseven minutes.  (Haven't figured out the seconds yet.... OMG, OMG OMG)